Exploring the Parisian pearl of Eastern Europe

Bustling Bucharest

Story and photos by LeAnne MacAllister

U.S. Army Garrison Baumholder Public Affairs Office

With plans for U.S. Army Europe forces to move into Eastern Europe, Bucharest is likely to become a hotspot for Soldiers on a weekend pass.

The city on the Dimbovita River is stirring. Named centuries ago for a peasant named Bucur, but first officially used by Vlad Tepes — more popularly known as Dracula — in the 15th century, Bucharest has been home to Romans, Greeks and Ottomans, constantly embracing change throughout its history.

Today Bucharest is growing out from under the shadow of the Communist era and restoring the glory that Dictator Nicolae Ceausescu destroyed. It is bringing back its historical Parisian grandeur and blending it with its rediscovered, proud Romanian heritage. A pearl once considered lost behind the Iron Curtain, the city is regaining its passion with a budding social scene, including new restaurants and an energizing nightlife.

Flying in to Otopeni Airport dirt roads converge with newly built freeways, while run-down cookie-cutter apartments sit next to a high-end water park visible below. During a short drive into the city along wide, grand avenues marking the pre-World War II aristocratic wealth, the city’s own Arch of Triumph comes into view. Speckled with Victorian architecture and communist consistencies, Bucharest’s city center takes even the most seasoned traveler by surprise.

It seems all roads lead to, or around, the Palatul Parlamentului. Known as the People’s Palace, this building holds the title of second largest building in the world. Sitting on a bluff with a path of fountains leading up to its gates, the Stalinist structure is an overwhelming reminder of the past, yet now serves as the home to democracy working within its walls. The interior is so large it took 700 architects directing 22,000 laborers working year-round from 1984-1989 to build, costing 25 percent of the country’s annual budget, and some of the 1,100 rooms still sit unfinished. It’s a must see for all visitors with tours available. Eyes are drawn to art gathered from the country’s treasures, including the 24- caret gold paint used to embellish the ceilings.

Near the People’s Palace other national treasures are re-surfacing. “The people moved churches and other national treasures off the main roads to save them, literally picking buildings up and shifting them backwards so that Ceausescu — an atheist who did not want any religion viewable in his city — wouldn’t destroy them,” said Octavian Rantz, a local travel agency owner. “Now our treasures are coming back into view.”

The city is alive with newfound strength. Piatza Revolutiei, Revolution Square, marks the place of the people’s revolution on Christmas of 1989. The city’s pace has quickened around this commercial area, but  young and old alike gladly tell tourists about the change that happened at a time still fresh in their memories.

Nearby, the National Opera House is another example of why this city has been referred to as “the Paris of the East.” The top of the house welcomes crowds to an open air terrace bar, a hot spot for students at night. During summer months, movies are projected to the outdoor pub goers on the side of the building.

The Muzel Staului, known as the Village or Peasant Museum, located in Bucharest’s largest park, Herastrau Park and Gardens, is just one of more than 40 museums in the city. At Staului visitors are invited to tour the various architectural designs of traditional homes and churches from across the country. This village museum offers hands-on learning throughout the authentic workshops manned with local craftspeople and park goers can wander through the authentically furnished buildings.

The park sits on the largest lake in Bucharest. Visitors during the summer can rent a row boat for 8 lei (approximately $3), and take to the water. An island in the middle of Herastrau Lake provides numerous dining options and an opportunity to view the gardens.

Romanians take cuisine seriously offering from delectable baked goods to seasoned grilled meatballs and plum brandy. Don’t leave Bucharest without trying the local delicacies. There are dining options meeting all budgets, including street vendor specialties and five star chefs’ award winning creations at the J.W. Marriott Hotel.

The city has a nightlife offering a range of venues to young and old party owls. Showcasing everything from ‘80s venues, to trendy clubs, to martini bars, Bucharest doesn’t miss a beat. The locals recommend hot spots such as Opium, Piranha Club, Deja vu and Luna Club.

Bucharest alone is well worth a trip, but if you have the opportunity to sightsee beyond the capital, trains run 13 times daily to the western province of Transylvania, home to Count Dracula’s castle and folklore. Romania’s northeastern province of Moldavia is known for fabled monasteries with much of the countryside offering picturesque castles and villages.

If you ask the Bucharest locals where they vacation, Constanta, about 200 miles east on the Black Sea, is a popular resort town for sun-worshiping beach goers.

And if you head out to the coast in July, a sea of Romanian sunflowers standing six feet or taller surround you on your journey.