Devil’s Den

Learn about local legends during Steinau cave tour

Story and photos by Karl Weisel

U.S. Army Garrison Hessen Public Affairs Office

You won’t see any bats in this cave, but if you’re lucky you’ll catch a glimpse of Gustav the fire salamander or one of the toads that call the Teufelshöhle (Devil’s Den) home.

Located east of Gelnhausen in the Spessart Mountains near Steinau, the cave is one of several attractions for young and old associated with local legends that once inspired fairy tale collectors Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm as young men growing up in the nearby village.

About a 20-minute hike up into the forest leads one to the entrance of the Teufelshöhle, a cave that was once accessible only through a small hole in the top of one of the chambers. Because the cave remained unexplored for centuries, stories evolved about a place in the forest where sinister events were known to occur — such as one unlucky cowherd who attributed the disappearance of one of his cows to the devil’s work, while in fact, its skeleton was discovered years later mingled among the bones of numerous other animals that had unluckily tumbled into the cavern.

While local citizens feared the devil might once again emerge from his hole in the ground to snatch other unsuspecting victims and tried unsuccessfully to fill it with boulders in the late 16th century, it wasn’t until more than two centuries later that a Steinau papermaker became the first human to voluntarily enter the cave by rope through a hole in the surface. His explorations were followed by others and eventually led to the blasting of a 50-meter-long shaft lower down on the hill, providing access into the cave and the means to eventually clear the chambers of boulders and bones.

Today visitors are invited to join the tour guides for about a half-hour visit below ground to learn more about the myths and facts associated with the Teufelshöhle. While many of the stalactites and stalagmites were broken off by visitors over the years, one can still see several examples of the unique formations that take 300 years to grow a mere one centimeter at a time.

Visitors are led through several chambers and told amusing stories about some of the unusual rock shapes in the cave and given insight into the geological and botanical makeup within the cavern. They are also shown the areas where thousands of bats hibernate during the winter months (the cave is closed to visitors at that time) and respiratory patients occasionally come to enjoy the dust-free air in the so-called “climate chamber.”

The Teufelshöhle is open from Easter to Oct. 31 weekdays from 1-5 p.m., Saturday from 1-7 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Groups are also welcome, including English-speakers, but visits should be arranged in advance with the Steinau Visitors’ Information Center by calling civ (06663) 96310.

Admission is I2 for adults and I1.50 for children (it’s slightly less for groups of 15 or more).

The cave is located just north of Steinau and can be reached by taking Autobahn 66 from Frankfurt or Hanau to the Steinau exit and following signs to the Teufelshöhle.

While in the area be sure to also visit the old town, castle and former home of the Grimm Brothers (Brüder Grimm Haus). A small amusement park, the Erlebnispark Steinau, is located in the hills above the town.