Retracing Dad’s WWII Bavaria travels

Admiration for German scenery crosses generations

By Sara Goodeyon

U.S. Army Garrison Wiesbaden Public Affairs Office

When my World War II veteran-dad learned my husband’s duty station would be in Germany he immediately began to regale me with stories of his time here during and after the war. His fondest memories were of the Bavarian Alps and lakes — especially Berchtesgaden where Adolf Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest is located. He wanted my family to see what he had seen.

Stay at Edelweiss

When we planned our trip to Bavaria we decided we would drive to Berchtesgaden, visit the Eagle’s Nest and then travel the two-and-a-half hours from there to Garmisch-Parten-kirchen and stay at the Army’s Edelweiss Lodge and Resort. From there we would explore the Alpine hiking trails and lakes nearby.

We found the Eagle’s Nest looks much the same now as it did when my dad saw it after the war, only now it is a restaurant with a museum and gift shop. The house sits more than 6,000 feet above sea level in a pristine alpine setting with a spectacular view of surrounding mountains, Germany, Austria and the Königsee, an alpine lake my dad told me about.

There are trails for hiking around the summit to inspect the unusual rock formations and alpine vegetation, and we had a great time exploring and admiring the view.

I tried to imagine my father there 60-some years earlier but under such different circumstances.

For day two we set out for Partnach Gorge, a national monument located in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, just a few minutes from Edelweiss, which can be accessed by parking at the Ski Stadium where events for the 1936 Winter Olympics were held.

Sturdy hiking shoes and a rain slicker are recommended for this adventure as the foot path through the gorge takes you right along the edge of the rushing stream and under waterfalls. The path is wet and you will get wet, but it is an exhilarating hike.

Once through the gorge there are hiking paths leading through alpine meadows high in the mountains. We hiked through the Hausberg and Eckbauer areas which are connected by the Eiserne Brücke that crosses 80 meters above the gorge where the view is awe-inspiring — if you can bear to look down.

Cold, clear water

Some of Dad’s stories of Germany were about how deep and clear the alpine lakes were in Bavaria, so we set out to see the Eibsee to judge for ourselves. The lake is at the foot of the Zugspitze and just a short drive from Edelweiss. For a few euros we rented a paddle boat and took a ride over the cool, clear waters of Lake Eib early on a Sunday morning. The view from the lake of the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest mountain, and the Wetterstein range is majestic.

After the boat ride we hiked the perimeter of the Eibsee on a path that is stroller friendly. The hike takes you past lush forests, rushing waterfalls and allows for more spectacular views of the Zugsptize and glimpses of wildlife. The hike is less than six miles, and we did it in less than three hours with a 3-year-old child.

While it is hard being so far away from my father as he is getting up there in years and not in the best of health, by visiting the places he saw, it makes me feel closer in spirit to him. I’m glad my children and I had this chance to experience some of the places he saw as a young Soldier.

Edelweiss offers tours to all of the places we visited. For more information about staying at the Edelweiss and exploring southern Bavaria, visit www.edelweisslodge andresort.com or stop by your local library for travel guides.