London calling

Modern and the majestic merge in one breathtaking jumble in Britain’s capital

 

“I hope to see London once ere I die.” — William Shakespeare

 

“When a man is tired of London he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.” — Samuel Johnson

 

“London calling to the faraway towns …” the Clash

 

Story and photos by Karl Weisel

104th Area Support Group Public Affairs Office

Like most great cities, the United Kingdom’s capital is all things to all people.

One needn’t borrow from the casebook of Sherlock Holmes, nor travel to a mythical Baker Street address, to uncover the multi-faceted treasures that await London visitors. As a showcase of over 2,000 years of history, museums packed to the brim with great works of art and artifacts, theaters featuring state-of-the-art productions, a wide range of concert venues and clubs, palaces, cathedrals, parks, cozy pubs, pomp, circumstance and the royal guards, one is certain to find something worthy of closer inspection.

Whether one stays for only a few days or a longer visit, a little advance planning can certainly help shape future memories of Europe’s largest city. If catching a popular stage production such as “The Lion King” or “The Producers” is on the agenda, going online to arrange advance tickets is not only recommended but necessary in most cases. While one can take one’s chances at a London theater box office or at the half-price ticket office on Leicester Square the day of the performance, long lines, sold out shows and disappointment may await.

Visiting London during the off peak season (after or before summer and Christmas) is also recommended. Museums are less crowded, as are most other popular sights such as the Tower of London and the British Museum. But be aware that London’s subway system, known as the Tube or Underground, and double-decker buses, are crowded most days of the week especially during rush hours. It’s not uncommon to experience a verbal nudge from station masters on the Underground, not unlike their counterparts in Tokyo who use more physical methods to encourage people to board subway carriages, during morning and afternoon commuter time.

Bringing along sturdy walking shoes is also highly recommended. This is one city where tromping through parks, down side streets, across bridges over the Thames River, through miles of museum corridors and along lengthy Underground tunnels gives one a true flavor of the place. Various walking tours are offered by outfits such as “London Walks” and “Golden Tours” leading visitors on such illuminating ambles as “Shakespeare’s London,” “Literary and Artistic London,” “Pub Walks” and to visit “Ghosts of the Old City.” Brochures are available in many hotels and at tourist information centers.

But one needn’t join a group to start one’s discovery tour. Guide books such as “Lonely Planet London” and “Let’s Go London,” available at local military libraries and Army and Air Force Exchange Service book stores, provide a wealth of advice and tips for setting out to explore London’s rich historical and cultural legacy.

If one is staying in one of the many hotels situated in the Bayswater section of London, just north of Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park, various sights, eateries and shopping opportunities are within a short walk or Tube ride. A stroll through Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park leads one into a landscape of autumnal colors, matrons out for a walk with dogs of all shapes and sizes, past whimsical statues such as Peter Pan to the Princess Diana Memorial, Speakers’ Corner and eventually under the Wellington Arch into Green Park and on to Buckingham Palace for the changing of the guards.

After relaxing for photos at the Queen Victoria Memorial, consider walking on to Westminster Cathedral, not far from Victoria Station, or continuing on through St. James’ Park to eventually reach Westminster Abbey, the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben.

Purchasing a daily Travelcard, valid for the city’s public transportation, can reduce travel costs considerably. Brochures and helpful Underground staff are available in most stations to explain which pass to buy, depending on which sections of London one wants to get to know better. The nice thing about having a Travelcard is that after one has relaxed over a meal in the evening, one can hop back on the Underground to zoom around to a particular destination for a night-time view of the sights along the Thames or to stop for a pint in a lively pub such as the Anchor or Old Thameside Inn near London Bridge.

Finding the time to visit London’s many museums is a major challenge. Whether one seeks modern art such as the latest offerings in the Tate Modern, a huge former power station; older masterpieces such as Van Gogh’s sunflowers or Ruben’s Samson and Delilah in the National Gallery on Trafalgar Square; the Rosetta Stone or Egyptian mummies in the British Museum, one’s main difficulty will be deciding which of the many outstanding collections to dedicate one’s time. Of particular enjoyment is reading the descriptive background notes which accompany the exhibits in the National Gallery and Tate Modern. The view of Millennium Bridge stretching across the river toward St. Paul’s Cathedral from huge picture windows set high up in the Tate Modern is worth a visit alone.

Younger visitors may prefer tromping through the Science or Natural History Museums in South Kensington or trekking through the London Zoo in Regent’s Park.

Although London is not an inexpensive place to visit, most of the national museums are free, except for special exhibitions such as the current Raphael exhibit at the National Gallery and the Robert Frank: Story Lines exhibition in the Tate Modern. Other popular sights, such as Madame Tussaud’s near Baker Street or the London Dungeon near London Bridge charge a hefty fee and usually feature long lines to gain entry.

First time visitors to London should make time to wander around the Tower of London, if only to get a glimpse first-hand of its massive fortifications, remnants of the Roman wall dating back to the city’s founding as Londinium, chatty Beefeaters and to stop for a pub lunch in the Dickens Inn at St. Katherine Docks just behind Tower Bridge. Also be sure to spend some time catching the zany offerings of the various street performers who regularly set up shop in Covent Garden and to walk through Piccadilly Circus and Soho.

Picking up a copy of “Time Out” or any of the free publications available throughout the city can also help one organize a visit.

Inexpensive flights such as those featured by Ryan Air (visit www.ryanair.com) are becoming ever more obtainable. But be aware that even those come with a hook — transportation into the city from outside airports is not exactly cheap.

The same goes for accommodations. Be aware that you get what you pay for. This writer stayed at a two-star hotel for roughly X70 a night (for a double) only to discover moldy walls and broken fixtures in the heart of Bayswater. Shop wisely. If it’s only a place to lay your head for the night that you seek, plenty of fairly reasonable places are available. Various websites feature lengthy listings of available accommodations in the city which can be booked online.

Local Rhein Main Area USOs also feature a trip to London Nov. 24-28. Call or stop by the USO for more information.