Odin’s Forest

Head down the Bergstrasse to hike or bike into this storybook landscape

Story and photos by Karl Weisel

U.S. Army Garrison Hessen Public Affairs Office

Forest trails, a waterfall of giant boulders, medieval castles and spectacular views across autumnal-hued vineyards await visitors to the countryside southeast of Darmstadt.

Hikers and bikers can easily enter this scenic realm, better known as Odin’s Forest, from any of several towns along the famed Bergstrasse. A drive down Autobahn 5 or train ride in the direction of Heidelberg from Frankfurt or Darmstadt leads one all along this gently, undulating backdrop with its scenic wine towns, many of them ending in the German word for home — Seeheim, Bensheim, Heppenheim, Weinheim.

While hikers and bikers may wish to shorten their climb up into the vineyards and forest beyond by parking near any of several castles along the route — Alsbach and Auerbach offer access to a variety of marked trails that lead up to the Melibokus, the highest point on the Hessen Bergstrasse at just over 517 meters — pedaling along the foothills gives one a chance to check out the many half-timbered houses, castles, brewery restaurants and other eateries in towns such as Zwingenberg along the route. If arriving by car or train, consider parking at Alsbach and unloading the bike, or getting off the train at the Bensheim rail station.

Various roads, paved and unpaved paths lead up into the vine-draped hills overlooking the Bergstrasse. It doesn’t really matter where you start, eventually you’ll find your way to the higher ground and paths leading deeper into the forest with views back over the hills and valley beyond.

If you happen to stumble upon signs to the Felsberg and Felsenmeer follow them to discover a truly memorable sight — huge boulders, deposited by melting glaciers and rounded off by the weather over millions of years, appearing like a waterfall gushing down the side of the mountain in the forest between Beedenkirchen and Reichenbach. While young and old enjoy ascending up through this sea of rocks that once served as building blocks for the Roman Empire, bikers will discover a number of marked trails that cut through the Felsenmeer and lead higher up to a tower and lookout point before heading back toward the Bergstrasse.

Falconry and medieval meals

Explorers who make the climb up the 339-meter high Auerberg to its namesake castle, the Auerbacher Schloss, are rewarded with panoramic vistas from the castle tower, a wild bird show (falcons, owls and other birds of prey) and a restaurant that regularly features medieval dinners. The castle, built in the 13th century by the counts of Katzenelnbogen, is one of the most famous on the Bergstrasse and was captured on canvas by many noted German painters. For more information about events in the castle visit www.schloss-auerbach.de.

From a parking lot near the top of the Auerberg walkers and bikers can either continue climbing up to the Melibokus or enjoy a mostly downhill ride all through the forest from the Auerbach Castle back to another castle set over the town of Alsbach. Runners too will enjoy the many color-coded trails that stretch from the parking lots near both castles specifically designed to offer various running lengths starting at just over five kilometers to much more with a variety of challenging and not-so-challenging ascents and descents.

With the hills quickly shedding their fall colors and temperatures soon to drop, now’s the perfect time to hit the trails above the Bergstrasse.