WIESBADEN,
Germany — Ignoring the advice of fellow travelers and
guidebooks which all recommend visiting in spring or fall, we decided to head
to southern France in July. Not surprisingly, our destination, Provence, was
crowded with tourists, overfilled parking lots and campgrounds which had been
reserved months in advance.
Fortunately,
after being turned away from several camping areas in the vicinity of Uzes and Remoulins and
negotiating many kilometers of narrow, winding back roads, we discovered a
quiet campground on the bank of the Gardon River near
the small village of Montfrin. Although slightly
unsettled upon entering the village by signs warning about the danger of
roaming bulls in the streets in anticipation of the upcoming weekend
bullfighting festival, we were happy to find ample space in the campgrounds on
the edge of the village.
With the
tent erected under the cover of trees, the evening air abuzz with the sound of
cicadas, a fresh salad prepared and pasta on the boil we felt as if we had
arrived.
Thanks to
the 1989 best-selling book “A Year in Provence” by Peter Mayle,
ever popular artistic renditions by post-impressionist painters such as Vincent
van Gogh and Paul Cezanne, and a landscape that offers something for all ages,
this region of southern France remains a must-see on European travels.
While one
might think this not a place for younger visitors, we found plenty to do for
everyone in the family.
Our first
stop was a drive into the 800-square-kilometer national park area known as the Parc Regional de Camargue. After
descending from the rocky hilled terrain where we had set up camp about an hour
north of the coast, driving through fields of sunflowers and lavender, we made
a stop in the town of Arles, noted for its Roman artifacts and as having served
as inspiration for many of Dutch painter van Gogh’s most famous works.
The
guidebooks recommended visiting the town’s museums, churches and Roman
amphitheater; however, wanting to spend more time in the Camargue
and having difficulty finding parking in town, we followed signs to the Pont du
van Gogh. Known locally as Le Pont de Langlois aux Lavandieres, this reconstructed drawbridge was instantly
recognizable from van Gogh’s late 19th-century painting. And like a Renoir or
Seurat painting, visitors from around the world were picnicking in the shade of
trees along the sleepy river which flowed under the Arles drawbridge.
Heading
farther south took us into the national park where we saw signs to bird
sanctuaries and an archeological museum. As the park is home to hundreds of
species of migratory birds and wild horses, it wasn’t long before we could see
flamingos, herons and horses all through the sandy marshes flanking the road
through the park. Several ranches along the route offered horse rides through
the Rhone delta terrain.
Once at the
coast, in the town of Stes-Marie-de-la-Mer, we joined the lunchtime beach crowd for a fish lunch
in one of the many outdoor restaurants and then settled down for some reading
time on the beach.
Papal
Avignon
Our next
day’s destination was the town of Avignon — a massive, walled city on the bank
of the Rhone River, famed for its Popes Palace. As home to a slew of breakaway
popes in the 14th century, Avignon’s huge gothic church dominates the town. But
in July, Avignon’s theater festival takes centerstage
with posters plastered on every surface, wandering thespians offering a sample
of what’s in store on stages throughout town, and musicians performing in every
alcove.
With too
little time, and too much to see, our last day in Provence took us to the Roman
aqueduct known as Pont-du-Gard. Once a neglected
reminder of the ambitious conquest by Roman legions some 2,000 years ago, this
massive, three-tiered, interlocking-stone water delivery system towers over the
Gardon River under which visitors
canoe and dive from the cliffs. Now a World Heritage site, the park area
features trails along the river, a small museum and amazing views. Companies
along the Gardon River for several kilometers
upstream from the the aqueduct offer canoes and
kayaks for rent by the day.
Drawing its
name as the Roman Empire’s first settled province outside of Italy, Provence
offers visitors a wealth of things to do and see. From the ancient city of
Nimes, the bustle of Marseille, the picturesque houses of Aix-en-Provence to a
host of other photogenic towns, villages and vineyards wherever one looks,
Provence is breathtaking.
Visit your
local library for guidebooks and advice on the best time of year to explore
Provence.