Exploring UNESCO’s world treasures

Upper Middle Rhein Valley offers adventures for all

Story and photos by Karl Weisel

U.S. Army Garrison Hessen/Wiesbaden Public Affairs Office

Americans stationed in Hessen and Rheinland-Pfalz may not realize they are surrounded by several United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization World Heritage Sites. From the former Limes Roman boundary north of Frankfurt to the age-old monastery in Lorsch, the Messel fossil pits near Darmstadt to the Völklingen Ironworks near Saarbrücken, visitors are invited to explore a wealth of landmarks deemed worthy of special protection by UNESCO for their significance in world history.

Among the nearly 900 sites all over the globe is the Upper Middle Rhein River Valley — the stretch between Bingen and Koblenz. With its vine-draped slopes, medieval castles, age-old legends and picturesque riverside villages, tourists have long valued this unique setting. Whether cruising up the Rhein on an excursion boat, biking through the vineyards or driving along past one castle after another, one is sure to find a host of places worthy of a closer look.

Garden Show

While Bingen currently welcomes visitors to the annual statewide Garden Show featuring concerts, botanical displays and a host of events, towns on both sides of the river beckon with attractions appealing to young and old.

Most people who have lived in the Wiesbaden and Mainz areas for a while are more than familiar with the inviting wine towns stretching from Eltville to Rüdesheim. A relaxing day guaranteed to offer young legs a chance to burn off steam includes a ride on the two-seater cable cars from Rüdensheim up to the Niederwald Denkmal — a monument to German unification in the 19th century — and a picnic in the vineyards during the walk back down to the parking lot in town.

Heading farther north along the Rhein, just south of Koblenz, takes one to the more than 2,000-year-old town of Boppard. Besides the archeological digs attesting to the Roman presence in the village long ago, several medieval churches and gates, visitors are invited to hop aboard the chairlift (Sesselbahn) for a spectacular view of lakes in the vicinity, the nearby Hunsrück Mountains and a picture-postcard-worthy hairpin turn of the Rhein River.

Heading south from Boppard leads one to the town of St. Goar with its massive Burg Rheinfels. The site of a Christian charity house for the poor and needy founded by St. Goar in the 6th century, the castle ruins today attest to the many years when a stronghold stood high over the river monitoring traffic on the swiftly moving Rhein and on the roads into and through the valley.

After hiking or driving up the steep hill to the castle parking lot, cross a wooden bridge high over the moat and through a massive entrance gate to enter the castle grounds. Youngsters will have a ball exploring the maze of dimly lit tunnels and passageways running under and through the castle. Turrets, casemates, towers and chambers are labeled with descriptions of their various uses (slaughterhouse, chapel, dungeon, etc.) and provide an insight into medieval feudal life.

A museum with armor, maps, a full-scale pharmacy and weapons offers a detailed history of the castle and surrounding countryside. Exhibits describe how the castle grew from a customs stronghold in the 13th century into one of the most impregnable baroque castles in all of Europe during the Renaissance.

Like many castles in Germany, it eventually fell to invading French armies in the 18th century and suffered major damage.

The castle is open through Oct. 25 from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. From November to March it is only open on snow- and ice-free weekends from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is €4 for adults, €2 for children age 6-14 or €10 for a family ticket.

Exploring tunnels

Make sure to bring a flashlight to explore the passageways — especially those in the lower back portion of the castle which get smaller and smaller as one descends.

From St. Goar take the ferry across the river to follow signs up to the Loreley to visit another well-known landmark. A visitor’s center provides a detailed exhibition of the World Heritage Site, information about the river valley’s history, legends, wine cultivation and more.

Stop by your local library or USO before heading out to pick up information and details on trips available in this remarkable region of Germany.